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Slightly away from the heart of the acropolis, Perugia retains a truly fascinating corner of the city full of architectural and visual wonders. The tourist route that we propose begins just behind the busy Piazza Matteotti. From here we reach via Oberdan, which accompanies us to discover Borgo Bello.
A stone's throw from Corso Vannucci and the Rocca Paolina, it is easy to reach the picturesque "ladders" of Sant'Ercolano, a double stairway from the 1600s. Walking along the ladders is like plunging gradually into the Perugian Middle Ages: the steps unwind, drawing a slight curve, crossing the ancient Porta Cornea - also called Arco di Sant'Ercolano - and then ending at the foot of the magnificent church dedicated to the homonymous saint.
The church stands in the place where the martyrdom of Sant'Ercolano, protector of Perugia and the university, is thought to have taken place; it was erected so close to the Etruscan walls that its first floor was demolished during the construction of the Rocca Paolina, to allow the latter to have an excellent view of the entire surrounding valley. Built in Gothic style at the end of the 1200s, it is considered a magnificent wedding favor, due to the beauty it contains inside. Unfortunately, however, due to a lack of funds for maintenance and restoration, Sant'Ercolano is closed to the public most of the time, but with a little luck it is possible to find it open.
After passing the 19th-century Tre Archi in via Marconi, you reach Corso Cavour, a long street full of shops and workshops. The small square dedicated to Giordano Bruno will immediately attract your attention, opening your view to the imposing basilica of San Domenico.
Its construction began in the mid-1400s, but its current composition, Gothic, very simple and white, was defined in 1600. San Domenico preserves many valuable works of art, as well as a huge apse window, among the largest in Italy.
San Domenico was built on the ashes of the ancient church of Santo Stefano, of which only the Romanesque portal and the cloister of the adjoining convent remain, where today the National Archaeological Museum of Umbria is located. The emotional impact of the cloister, especially if the day is sunny, is disarming: bright and tidy, it has a well in the center. All around, cinerary urns and Etruscan and Roman finds. The actual museum develops in the internal rooms of the cloister and is subject to a fee, while the external entrance to the structure is free.
Continuing along Corso Cavour you reach the majestic Basilica of San Pietro and its Benedictine monastery, now the seat of the Faculty of Agriculture.
The church was built in the 1900s and is surmounted by a beautiful and sinuous bell tower visible from different areas of the city. Inside, the basilica is like a treasure chest: the yellow of the gold dominates the predominantly Gothic architecture, and the wooden choir is considered the most beautiful in Italy, while the chapels are finely frescoed. Among the most precious works that the church houses are important names in the history of art such as Perugino and Guercino.
The cloisters of the Basilica house the botanical and medieval garden, characteristic of the presence of internal water sources, as the Benedictine philosophy required for monastic life. It is possible to visit this paradise of plants, flowers, and fruits every day except Saturdays and Sundays from 8.00 to 17.00.
Just outside the vegetable gardens, you can glimpse a fenced and closed public garden: they are the Frontone Gardens, the first public park in Perugia and the scene of municipal initiatives such as fairs, markets, concerts, and open-air cinemas. Completed in 1700, the small park has a linear and simple structure, with gravel paths, green flowerbeds, and centuries-old trees, which flow into a small travertine amphitheater. The air you breathe at the Frontone is decadent and melancholic, but very fascinating. A suitable place to rest in peace after visiting all the wonders of the journey just completed.